Haleakala National Park extends from the summit of Mount Haleakala into the crater, down the volcano's southeast flank to Maui's eastern coast, beyond Hana. There are actually two separate and distinct destinations within the park: Haleakala Summit and the Kipahulu coast. The summit gets all the publicity, but Kipahulu draws crowds, too--it's lush, green, and tropical, and home to Oheo Gulch (also known as Seven Sacred Pools). No road links the summit and the coast; you have to approach them separately, and you need at least a day to see each place.

When To Go--At the 10,023-foot summit, weather changes fast. With wind chill, temperatures can be below freezing any time of year. Summer can be dry and warm, winters wet, windy, and cold. Before you go, get current weather conditions from the park (tel. 808/572-9306) or the National Weather Service (tel. 808/871-5054).

From sunrise to noon, the light is weak, but the view is usually free of clouds. The best time for photos is in the afternoon, when the sun lights the crater and clouds are few. Go on full-moon nights for spectacular viewing.

Access Points--Haleakala Summit is 37 miles, or about a 2-hour drive, from Kahului. To get here, take Highway 37 to Highway 377 to Highway 378. For details on the drive, see "The Drive to the Summit," below. Pukalani is the last town for water, food, and gas.

The Kipahulu section of the national park is on Maui's east end near Hana, 60 miles from Kahului on Highway 36 (the Hana Highway). Due to traffic and rough road conditions, plan on 4 hours for the drive, one way. Hana is the only nearby town for services, water, gas, food, and overnight lodging; some facilities may not be open after dark.

Information, Visitor Centers & Ranger Programs--For information before you go, contact Haleakala National Park, Box 369, Makawao, HI 96768 (tel. 808/572-9306; www.nps.gov.hale).

One mile from the park entrance, at 7,000 feet, is Haleakala National Park Headquarters (tel. 808/572-9306), open daily from 7am to 4pm. You can pick up information on park programs and activities, get camping permits, and, occasionally, see a Hawaiian nene (goose)--one or more are often here to greet visitors. Rest rooms, a pay phone, and drinking water are available.

The Haleakala Visitor Center, open daily from sunrise to 3pm, is near the summit, 11 miles from the park entrance. It offers a panoramic view of the volcanic landscape, with photos identifying the various features, and exhibits that explain its history, ecology, geology, and volcanology. Park staff members are often handy to answer questions. The only facilities are rest rooms and water.